How To Clean Comet Torque Converter And Clutch

I started to write this for Hybrid, simply felt I should continue to make this easier to observe. Couldn't observe this posted past others.

one. Removal - You lot must beginning remove the drive clutch from engine, the bolt will be on the output shaft of the motor, you'll need an touch wrench or a box finish wrench and another to tap the box end using blunt strength to remove the bolt. Once you lot have the commodities out it should come right off the shaft hands aside from whatsoever rust that keeps it on the shaft. Grease the shaft slightly with no clutch on there to make removal easier in the futurity.

2. Disassembly - Identify the clutch assembly on a work demote or tabular array and remove the outer cover, keep notice that the hub in the assembly has the flat side downwards and the molded side up which will fit exactly in the cover. Remove the hub, fix it aside. Remove the bronze bushing off the backplate and set that to the side. Remove the spring pack assembly if yous accept not checked it recently for wear, if this is difficult to remove try wedging a flat blade screwdriver for ease.

3. Analysis - See if the clutch is in good shape, the main role of the drive clutch will have an aluminum spring pack associates which has 2 springs which when removed should leap out straight when unhooked and both pins should be firmly inside the aluminum. If either of those are wrong you may need to replace something. Check the bronze bushing for a crack where information technology may have broken. In the master associates and the hub, check side to side play, this should exist a fairly firm fit, information technology should not take much room to wiggle left and correct, a big corporeality of play will indicate the clutch is heavily worn from utilise and may need to be retired. As with most things, if you detect wobble in the clutches, this is sometime repairable only normally is the kiss of death.

four. Cleaning - The hub needs to be cleaned, the all-time tool for this is a wire bike on a bench grinder, make clean the hub of any textile. Next have a wire castor and brush out the splines in the principal assembly and make sure it is nice and costless of debris, it may demand a rat tail file the very starting time time y'all do this, we employ a diamond flake chainsaw sharpener for fine cleaning. The sides of the clutches which the belt rides on need to be cleaned to where in that location is no rust or pitting, it needs to be smooth. Start with a wire wheel and if severely rusted you lot may move to a sand paper, nosotros use a pneumatic 3M sanding bicycle to clean these when in bad shape. When cleaning the hub and principal associates that hub should be able to drop clean through the assembly into the palm of your manus with no issues. If it does non do and then, it is not make clean plenty.

5. Re-Assembly - Place the spring pack assembly back into the main portion of the drive clutch, this should be flat side downwards, angled side up. If you have trouble placing this dorsum in the assembly you may need that flat blade screwdriver, we besides take apply of a 4x4 as woods will not harm the assembly if you need to smack it into place. Place the bronze bushing dorsum onto the back plate, identify the hub, ridged side up back into the main office of the assembly.

half dozen. Lubrication - This is a dry assembly, no wet lubrication Catamenia. The only part that would need lubrication would be the inner side of the outer cover on the primary assembly where the aluminum slice rides on it using centrifugal strength. The lubrication in question suggested by Comet is their own brand of dry out lube, which is a dry moly blend, I'm sure there are other fine companies out at that place that offer this, but it doesnt demand lubrication often, its not that big of a bargain, the principal thing you lot need to focus on is cleaning the clutch. Any wet lubrication you do put in this volition create a terrible snowball effect which will collect more than dirt, dust, belt fiber, debris, etc. Bad idea to use wet lube.

7. Re-Installation - Put the clutch back on your kart, backplate offset with the statuary bushing, then the chief portion of the drive clutch beveled side starting time, outer plate abroad from the engine etc. Screw the bolt, lock washer, and flat washer back on the kart, if y'all have an bear upon wrench this is the time to apply it, if not employ a box end wrench and pull the recoil to lock upward the washer and keep the bolt firmly in place.

Maintenance - Comet did propose you clean this every five hours of use, just if you ride in the sand or an excessively muddy area, I'd say you need to make this part of what you do following riding during the clean up and maintenance fourth dimension you put into keeping your kart in good shape.

*Driven Clutch - The larger clutch on the jack-shaft assembly of the kart is considered your driven clutch while your drive clutch is the one on the motor. Primarily cleaning this is just spraying the assembly with restriction cleaner and making sure the surfaces where your belt will ride are clean, you might not desire to be and then hasty to disassemble this clutch given it is leap loaded and must be wound back into identify correctly or it will not operate at peak efficiency. This is not for beginners. An easier road to clean this would exist to use the fact that information technology can expand as it does when in operation, pull information technology autonomously and drop a nut or something inside the clutch so that you tin can have it apart while sanding for ease. Simply remove the nut when done.

**Series 40 Torque Converters. Those of yous who have series 40/44 Torque Converters accept a much easier process for maintenance. If there is a need nosotros can go over that procedure though it is very very easy.

This adjacent department is equally integral to performance every bit it is to proceed your clutch clean, yous must have the proper chugalug for your clutch and set-up.

If this chart is not cocky explanatory beginning determine what sort of assembly y'all accept. If this is a series 20 you lot will have a symmetrical system where the angles on the clutches will be identical. If you accept a serial 30, you lot volition accept an a-symmetrical system where the dorsum plate is nearly flat, the main assembly will be angled. The next thing we must make up one's mind is that your driven clutch (on the jack-shaft) is vi or 7" in diameter. The terminal matter y'all must measure out is the total distance centre indicate to eye bespeak between the clutches. Do non round the distance, keep it exact to the i/16th of an inch, this really does matter.

With Comet no longer in production to supply belts you sometimes must make due with the belts given distances, for those of you with Carter karts you may have to brand due with 203581,203582, or 203583 given you tin adjust your associates. When you are able to adjust in that location is more ability. Some are more lucky than others, those of y'all with stock assemblies on the Torq-A-Verter backplate, those with Yerf-Dogs or Mancos, all of these still have the 2 belts in production from alternate sources, the 203591 and 203589 belts are still here to stay for at present...In other words, if this is not you, accept what you can become

Should your belt be as well lose or worn too heavily your kart will be sluggish and preform terribly. Alternatively, if your belt is too tight it will not disengage and occasionally snap the chugalug immediately.

Lastly, those of you with MaxTorque Torque Converters, PM me and I'll help you cross reference your chugalug number to the corresponding Comet Series xx belt. The cleaning process will exist the same for y'all.

I tin can add pictures later on if my descriptions are terrible or someone feels it necessary.

How To Clean Comet Torque Converter And Clutch,

Source: https://www.diygokarts.com/community/threads/maintaining-your-torque-converter.7332/

Posted by: harrwalwascalith.blogspot.com

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